Preparation

Preserved lemons are a revelation to the uninitiated — salty, silky, with an almost buttery quality that develops during weeks of fermentation. The peel becomes the prize, losing its bitterness while concentrating aromatic oils. Use in tagines, salad dressings, pasta, or anywhere you want a citrus punch with depth.

Preparation

1. Sterilize a 1-quart glass jar with a tight-fitting lid by boiling it for 10 minutes.
2. Cut each lemon lengthwise into quarters, stopping 1/2 inch before the bottom so the segments remain attached.
3. Mix salt and sugar in a bowl. Pack a generous amount of this mixture into the center of each lemon.
4. Place a layer of salt-sugar mixture on the bottom of the jar. Add 2-3 stuffed lemons, pressing down firmly to release juices. Add a few cardamom pods.
5. Continue layering lemons, salt mixture, and spices until the jar is full, pressing firmly after each addition.
6. Add bay leaves and cinnamon stick. Pour in enough fresh lemon juice to completely cover the lemons.
7. Seal the jar and leave at room temperature for 3 days, turning it upside down daily to redistribute the brine.
8. Transfer to the refrigerator and age for at least 3 weeks before using. They'll keep for up to 6 months refrigerated.
9. To use, rinse off excess salt, discard the pulp if desired, and slice the peel thinly.