Preparation

Hannah Glasse's The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy (1747) and similar Georgian-era cookbooks reveal a British table far more adventurous than its modern reputation suggests. These pumpkin puffs, inspired by period recipes, were sold by street vendors and served at tea tables alike.

Making the Puffs

1. In a large bowl, combine the pumpkin puree, sugar, mace, cloves, nutmeg, salt, and orange zest. Mix thoroughly.
2. Beat in the eggs and rose water until smooth.
3. Gradually fold in the flour until you have a soft, slightly sticky dough. If too wet, add flour by the tablespoon.
4. Turn out onto a floured surface and knead gently for 2 minutes. Let rest, covered, for 30 minutes.
5. Roll the dough to about 1/2-inch thickness. Cut into 2-inch rounds or diamond shapes.
6. Heat 2 inches of lard or oil in a heavy pot to 350°F (175°C).
7. Fry the puffs in batches, about 2 minutes per side, until golden brown and puffed.
8. Drain on paper towels and dust generously with powdered sugar while still warm.

The rose water provides a floral note that was typical of Georgian desserts, while the mace—a spice now largely forgotten—adds a subtle warmth that distinguishes these from modern pumpkin treats.