Preparation

The 17th century delighted in edible trickery—pies that sang when cut, jellies molded to resemble castles, and marchpane (marzipan) shaped into animals, fruits, and fantastical beasts. The hedgehog pudding appeared in several period cookbooks, most notably Hannah Woolley's 1670 The Queen-Like Closet.

These confections served as conversation pieces during the banquet course, the final stage of elaborate meals when sweet and savory dishes appeared together. Guests were meant to admire the craftsmanship before destruction, and the hedgehog's charming appearance made it a particular favorite.

Preparation

1. Grind the blanched almonds in a food processor until very fine, almost butter-like. This may take 5-7 minutes, scraping down the sides occasionally.
2. Add powdered sugar, 2 egg whites, rosewater, orange blossom water, and salt. Process until the mixture forms a smooth, pliable paste.
3. Turn out onto a work surface and knead briefly until smooth. If too sticky, work in more powdered sugar; if too dry, add the remaining egg white by teaspoons.
4. Form about two-thirds of the paste into an oval hedgehog body, shaping one end into a pointed snout. Place on a serving platter.
5. Starting at the back, insert sliced almonds at an angle to create "quills," overlapping them like shingles. Leave the face and belly smooth.
6. Press whole cloves into the face for eyes. Use a small piece of the remaining paste to form ears.
7. Brush the face and belly lightly with remaining egg white for shine.
8. If desired, pipe red currant jelly in a small pool near the mouth to represent blood from a recent hunt—a macabre detail that delighted Stuart diners.

Present the hedgehog on a bed of preserved fruits or candied violets. To serve, cut slices from the back. The flavor is intensely almond-sweet with haunting floral notes, a taste entirely different from modern marzipan.